While there’s not a set pattern for a tie-on pocket, they tend to follow the same shape and size. They have a square top and rounded bottom, described as pear-shaped. I describe them as a “sort of squashed oval.”
They are generally much bigger than you expect. In my case, I think it is because I am used to modern pockets that are tiny. My husband has pants with pockets that can fit a 2 liter of soda. I have pants with pockets that fit maybe 1/3 of my cell phone.
But women have always had a lot of stuff to carry, so they needed big pockets. They might even put items in a box or bag and then put that into their pocket. Additionally, those large openings (usually 18 inches or larger) seem helpful if you’re passing your hand through layers of skirts and petticoats and underthings.
A friend commissioned me to make a pocket for her in 2024. She suggested I start with the Victoria and Albert Museum: Make Your Own Tie-On Pockets. This page assumes some prior knowledge of basic sewing, but it takes you through the steps of choosing a size, shape, and fabric. It also has a template you can download.
You can also find many people online who are willing to share their pattern and process via blogs or YouTube (some free, some for purchase).
I haven’t tried it, but I like the modern Boho look of this pattern by kzstevens.
In my case, I started with two kits. I use one pocket from each kit for my friend (I made her an extra pocket because I love her). I didn’t want to deal with getting all of the different fabrics, etc; I preferred the convenience of the kits.
Neither kit is available currently, but both companies make other cool historical re-enactor things.
I got an all cotton kit that included a drawing of a historical pattern and a palette of wool thread. They also offer(ed) kits with flame stitch patterns, which was my real introduction to that style. I really want to get one of the mitt patterns.
At the Sign of the Golden Scissors
I purchased a linen and pocket pocket kit that came with a pre-stamped pattern. I eschewed that for Aida cloth, but I did use the linen as backing instead of the provided cotton. This kit did not come with thread, but I did purchase some crewel embroidery thread bundles, and I’ve since purchased more because they are a really fun surprise.
I’ve since purchased and somehow lost the quilted pocket kit, and have also purchased the cotton pocket kits that come with patterned fabric.
There is also a shop on Etsy that sells kits, but they are based in the UK, so I haven’t tried them. (And now I can’t find them, so maybe they no longer exist and/or no longer sell kits.)
Overall, I like the Golden Scissors kits better because of the size and shape of the pocket. However, the Penny River kit did have everything I needed.
It’s my great hope both kits return to the shelves.
If you want historical accuracy and don’t want to purchase a kit, the V&A pattern is probably the best place to start. But that’s the cool thing about these kinds of “women’s accessories”: it can look like whatever you want to suit your own needs.
I like the feel of linen but cotton is cheaper, so I’ve only made one linen pocket. Mine are three layers: top is embroidered fabric, then a lining to protect the back of the embroidery, and finally the other outside part of the pocket.
I’ve used both commercial and hand-made bias tape. Commercial is slightly easier because it’s pre-folded. But hand-made is more accurate, and also a good way to use up scraps. I backstitch the three layers together by hand, then bind with tape and either backstitch or running stitch in place. Most directions say to use running stitch for the three layers, but I just don’t trust my own stitching.
You also need enough tape to go over the top of the pocket and down the slit of the pocket.
Then stitch the top of the pocket to whatever you will use for tying. A big piece of thick ribbon works well.
I’ve embroidered all of my pockets with wool crewel thread. It just feels more special to me. Most sources I’ve read suggest the use of silk or linen thread, but I wonder if that’s a survivorship bias. As with all things, use whatever you like.
Pockets 3 and 4 were based on the Golden Scissors cotton kit. For the first one, I used the pattern fabric as backing, and used muslin for the front. For the second, I misplaced the kit, so I used Aida for the front, cotton for the back, and commercial tape. The shape is based on the Golden Scissors pocket, though. I had traced it onto the Aida before misplacing it.
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